Finger Extensor Training for Climbing Performance
What You Need to Know Before You Apply
What is the purpose of this trial?
The purpose of this study, is to assess climbing performance metrics that include max strength testing on a rock climbing hangboard, maximum grip strength, assessment of pain and function using the DASH (disability of the arm, shoulder and hand), and maximum flexor strength and maximum extensor strength in climbers who perform a traditional finger training protocol compared to climbers who train both traditional flexor training protocol and extensor tendons.
Who Is on the Research Team?
Cordelia M Mangia Jansson, MSc
Principal Investigator
KTH Royal Institute of Technology
Chuck Ruot, PhD
Principal Investigator
Hardin-Simmons University
Are You a Good Fit for This Trial?
This trial is for adults 18+ who are recreational to advanced rock climbers, have climbed regularly (at least once a week for 6 months or climbed for at least 2 years), can train twice weekly for 6 weeks, and have access to hangboard equipment. Participants must be able to give consent and follow study instructions.Inclusion Criteria
Timeline for a Trial Participant
Screening
Participants are screened for eligibility to participate in the trial
Treatment
Participants perform finger training protocols twice weekly for six weeks, with pre-, mid-, and post-intervention testing of grip strength, finger flexion strength, finger extension strength, finger endurance, and self-reported upper extremity function
Follow-up
Participants are monitored for changes in maximal finger flexion and extension strength, and upper extremity function
What Are the Treatments Tested in This Trial?
Interventions
- Extensor Tendon Isometric Training
- Traditional Hangboard Protocol
Trial Overview
The study compares two finger training methods: traditional flexor (grip) exercises versus a combination of flexor and extensor (back-of-hand) tendon training. The goal is to see which method improves climbing strength and performance more.
How Is the Trial Designed?
3
Treatment groups
Experimental Treatment
Active Control
Participants assigned to the Maximum Flexor Strength (MFS) group will perform a traditional finger flexor hangboard training protocol twice weekly for six weeks. Training is performed at 70% of maximal finger flexion strength using a standardized work-to-rest ratio. Participants will complete pre-, mid-, and post-intervention testing of grip strength, finger flexion strength, finger extension strength, finger endurance, and self-reported upper extremity function
Participants assigned to the Maximum Extensor Strength (MES) group will perform a traditional finger flexor hangboard training protocol combined with a structured finger extensor training protocol twice weekly for six weeks. Extensor training is performed at 70% of maximal finger extension strength using isometric loading, and will . Participants will complete pre-, mid-, and post-intervention testing of grip strength, finger flexion strength, finger extension strength, finger endurance, and self-reported upper extremity function.
Participants assigned to the control group will continue their usual climbing activities without participation in a structured finger training intervention. Participants will complete pre-, mid-, and post-testing identical to the intervention groups.
Find a Clinic Near You
Who Is Running the Clinical Trial?
April Henderson
Lead Sponsor
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